Castle Head and Friar’s Crag

 

The view in the pictures show the difference that 182m elevation make to the range of visibility. The top photo is taken from Friar’s Crag, a popular point made famous by John Ruskin. The lower one, from Castlehead crag, provides a panorama of many peaks: Skiddaw, Grizedale Pike, Robinson, Blencathra among them.

Both crags are intrusive geological features not part of the Borrowdale volcanic group. Formerly the rock, shown below was thought to be dolerite but now due to its quartz content is defined as Diorite, an intrusive igneous rock strong enough to survive ice age erosion. The pictures shows the dark  colour and fine grained texture.

Although it was a quick survey there were interesting plants in the woodlands. Common Cow-wheat (Melampyrum pratense) is a semi-parasitic plant growing near Friar’s crag.. Because the seed of the plant has an elaiosome (fleshy structure) which is attractive to wood ants, the ants disperse the seeds when they take them back to their nests to feed their young. Since the ants rarely carry the seeds more than a few yards, the plant is an indicator of ancient woodland.

European Goldenrod (Solidago virgaurea) in full flower. Bees are attracted to it for its late season nectar.

Also beloved by bees and insects, Wood Sage (Teucrium scorodonia) looked vibrant.

Heath Speedwell (Veronica officinalis) had finished flowering but was still recognisable.

Hawkweeds (Hieracium agg.) were just coming into flower

Other plants noticed in the woodland: Slender St john’s wort, Harebell, Wood sedge, Common valerian, Great woodrush, Common polypody, Enchanter’s nightshade and Common figwort.

On Castlehead crag there is a deciduous Alantic woodland. Mainly of Sessile oak (Quercus petraea) with Holly, Birch and Hazel understorey. Scots pine had colonized the craggy tops while Stonecrop Sedum album was creeping along the stony cracks and hollows.

Among the bryophytes Climbing corydalis (Ceratocapnos claviculata) was scrambling.

The site is noted for lichens but need to be covered separately.

References:

https://designatedsites.naturalengland.org.uk/PDFsForWeb/Citation/1003952.pdf

https://forestplans.co.uk/…/national-trust-woodland-management-plan-borrowdale.doc…

https://www.plantlife.org.uk/uk/discover-wild-plants-nature/plant-fungi-species/common-cow-wheat

Warks Burn Woodland Lichen

In mid July this woodland had some interesting lichen on show.  Many looked like the writing lichen. Graphis. The photo above looks like Graphis scripta and the lichen with the dark fruits and rhizines, shown below, Physcia leptalea.

Thelotrema lepadinum below is an indicator species for ancient woodland. Its doughnut fruits look like acorn cups.

A classic version of Graphis scripta below. It prefers smooth barked trees like Hazel.

Above and below depict more scribble lichen, perhaps Graphina anguina below?

Another example of a Opegrapha lichen looks like O atra.

A tableau of lichen: Ramalina fastigiata with the trumpet apothecia; Lecanora symmicta with the flat jade mosaic of apothecia and the common urban sunburst lichen, Xanthoria parietina coloured yellow.

Lastly, another woodland lichen possibly Micarea lignaria.

Warks Burn is noted for much rarer lichen mentioned in the SSSI. My walk through was brief and limited to a few quick photographs.

Reference: https://designatedsites.naturalengland.org.uk/PDFsForWeb/Citation/1000455.pdf

Fallowlees Flush Northumberland

Because of its lime rich seeps running down a slope to the Fallowlees burn a rich variety of species can thrive. The calcium rich water of the burn was covered in a large mass of  Chara vulgaris (Common stonewort). This is a green alga species. It is multicellular and superficially resembles land plants because of stem-like and leaf-like structures.

A close up reveals a lack of flowering parts and delicate floppy structure, like a seaweed.

 

This Marsh lousewort (Pedicularis palustris) was growing in acid conditions though it will tolerate alkaline soils. Not far away, Butterwort (Pinguicula vulgaris) was visible but no longer in flower. Butterwort been considered a magical plant in the Scottish islands. On the Hebridean island of Colonsay, it was thought, to protect you from witches  while cows were safe from elf-arrows if they ate it. Eriophorum of some kind is seen in the background. Commonly known as Cotton-grass it is a sedge.

Long-stalked yellow sedge (Carex lepiocarpa) grows here, I wonder if it is pictured below

Fir club moss (Huperzia selago) also liked the conditions. Clubmosses are very primitive plants that are found in rocky habitats, and on moorland, bogs and mountains. They reproduce by spores at the base of their leaves.

It is always interesting to snap a moth but not always easy to identify it. This could be a Common lutestring. Chimney sweeper moth and various butterfly species were seen: Ringlet, Meadow brown and Painted lady.

The flushes were rich in orchids like this Twayblade (Neottia ovata) pictured below and there were a collection of Common spotted (Dactylorhiza fuschii) with evidence of hybridization with other species.

The orchid below smelled of cloves but had spotted leaves. Probably a Marsh fragrant (Gymnadenia conopsea ssp. densiflora hybrid with Common spotted orchid.

Early marsh orchid Dactylorhiza incarnata subsp. coccinea is a striking red colour.

A fine example of Heath spotted orchid (Dactylorhiza maculata) another plant that tolerates both acid and alkaline conditions.

There was a large number of plant species, especially sedges, too many to document, but I took a few samples shown below. The clover is Zigzag (Trifolium medium).

 

 

Reference: SSSI citation:https://designatedsites.naturalengland.org.uk/PDFsForWeb/Citation/1005880.pdf

Wildlife trusts

 

Smardale Gill

Smardale Gill viaduct pictured above near Kirkby Stephen forms part of the walk along the valley.  Smardale is an SSSI site and a National nature Reserve offering a range of  limestone, woodland and marsh habitats. A few highlights are described below.

The Geums were interesting, both urbanum, rivale and their crosses present, including this attractive double flowered variety.

Greater butterfly orchid (Platanthera chlorantha) was growing by the footpath, distinquished from the lesser Butterfly orchid by its divergent pollinia (pollen masses).

Appearing on the opposite side of the walkway was Common wintergreen (Pyrola minor), pale pink flowers held in a spike. Bitter vetch (Lathyrus linifolius) was growing behind while Fragrant orchid was coming into flower nearby.

I mistook this Common twayblade (Neotttia ovata) for a Frog orchid. Frog orchid does grow here but is much smaller without the basal paired leaves.

Bloody cranesbill (Geranium sanquineum) was frequent in its red form but this pink flowered Cumbrian form was unfamiliar.

For comparison the red form is pictured below amid Birdsfoot trefoil, Rock rose (Helianthemum nummularium) and Heath wood rush (Luzula multiflora).

Some plants are difficult to identify to species level, such as this Hieracium below. I thought it might be H anglicum agg.

Fortunately, someone spotted this Horseshoe vetch (Hippocrepis comosa). Although superficially similar to Bird’s-foot trefoil the colour is stronger, leaf form different, and it is never suffused with red.

The site is noted for butterflies, the Northern Brown Argus was flying; the Scotch Argus flies later in the year.

Other butterflies seen: Painted lady, Common blue, Small heath but none in large numbers. Speckled wood was more numerous. This Large Skipper posed long enoughfor a photo.

A common lizard basking on a tree stump among the dried heads of Blue moor grass. Small but fascinating, the common lizard is unusual among reptiles as it incubates its eggs inside its body and ‘gives birth’ to live young rather than laying eggs. Adults emerge from hibernation in spring, mating in April and May, and producing three to eleven young in July.

Birds noticed: Buzzard, Ravens, Red Start, Curlew.

Other plants noted:  Limestone bedstraw, Common milkwort,  Sharp- flowered rush, Common valerian, Enchanter’s nightshade, Dog’s Mercury, Brachipodium sylvaticum, Stone bramble, Common figwort, Plantago media (Hoary plantain), Cirsium Heterophylum (Melancholy thistle), Salad burnet, Rough Chervil, Hairy St John’s wort, Wood sedge, Guelder rose, Wild Thyme, Oregano, Pale ladies mantle (Alchemilla xanthochrora), Betony, Tormentil, Sweet woodruff, Wood sorrel, Lady Fern (Athyrium
filix-femina).

Reference: https://designatedsites.naturalengland.org.uk/PDFsForWeb/Citation/1002478.pdf

Byker Butterflies

Byker is a deprived area of East Newcastle. It’s main shopping street, Shields Road, was voted worst shopping street in England by some retail organization. However, because it is untidy and neglected, Byker Link is relatively good for invertebrates. Unexpectedly, a group of Painted Lady butterflies (Vanessa cardui) were busy refuelling after their journey from North Africa. Handsome large strong butterflies, they are easily recognised. Its caterpillars feed on Mallow and Nettles.  The one pictured above was feeding on nectar rich Knapweed (Centaurea nigra).

This caterpillar feeding on clover is most likely the larva of the Narrow-bordered-5-spot Burnet moth (Zygaena lonicerae). Burnet moths are regularly seen here in summer, a crysalis of the same moth is shown below clinging to False oat grass.

Some butterflies are easier to photograph than others. I noticed a yellow/orange butterfly and a large fast flying red moth but could not identify them. This large or ‘golden’ skipper (Ochlodes sylvanus) was resting on Bramble. It has a chequered pattern on its wings and thrives on long uncut grasses. The picture below of the same female butterfly with closed wings showing it’s attractive eyes and black tipped antennae .

In the morning, before going to Byker, I found a chrysalis on my Butterfly woman on the allotment while I was renewing her clothes. Insects and spiders have been making a home in them, had I known, I would have left the clothes on. This chrysalis was glittering like a golden brooch and probably belongs to the Small tortoiseshell butterfly (Aglais urticae). Their larval food plant is the Stinging Nettle which is abundant on the allotment.

Butterfly woman looks good in her new dress but she has a Harlequin ladybird (Harmonia axyridis) larva, an invasive species, on her hat.

The following information is taken from:     https://askentomologists.com/2016/12/08/striking-gold/ which  explains the science behind the colouration.

Many butterfly chrysalises glimmer in the sunlight with golden studs or gold leafing. Rather than looking like something living, these delicate pupa decorate the surrounding foliage like miniature ornaments. The word ¨chrysalis¨is derived from the Greek word ¨chrysos¨meaning ¨gold.¨

 

Teesdale -Wild flowers

Teesdale is famous for its botanical interest. Although concentrating on Geology I noticed many interesting plants and managed to take a few snaps such as this Northern marsh orchid (Dactylorhiza purpurella) above. the orchid below looks like the scented orchid (Gymnadenia conopsea).

In the wet meadows Heath spotted orchid (datylorhiza maculata) was abundant and coming into flower, frillier than the Common spotted.

Mountain pansies (Viola lutea) are a feature here. These are the purple form, liked by the green veined white butterfly as a source of nectar in the picture below.

Mountain pansy comes in various colour forms such as this yellow variation.

Unknown to me:  this flower is Alpine bistort (Polygonum viviparum), another of the specialities.

Also unknown to me, this horsetail looked different, Shade horsetail (Equisetum pratense) seemed abundant.

Another Horsetail for comparison, with branched fronds, the wood horsetail (Equisetum sylvaticum) below.

There are Varigated horsetails here too. I missed them, but not the Globeflower (Trollius europaeus) in a drift with Creeping willow, Pignut, Water avens and more Shade horsetail.

Wood cranesbill (Geranium sylvaticum) was widespread here growing with Great burnet.

Bitter vetch (Lathyrus linifolium) growing on the Whin sill rocks at Low Force.

In a pool on the same rocks, a sedge that looks like Star sedge (Carex echinata), another sedge,

probably common sedge (Carex nigra) or Pale sedge pictured below

On a Whin outcrop a Hawkweed of some sort, Northern Hawkweed (Hieracium vagum)?

Pictured below another speciality, Common Butterwort (Pinguicula vulgaris) growing in a wet flush not far from the struggling Juniper forest. Common Butterwort is an insectivorous plant. Its bright yellow-green leaves excrete a sticky fluid that attracts unsuspecting insects; once trapped, the leaves slowly curl around their prey and digest it.

The fern growing at the top of high force is Lemon scented fern (Oreopteris limbosperma). I was puzzled by these Male fern lookalikes but their pale lime green colour and faint scent led me to think Lemon scented.

Some other plants noted: Good king Henry Chenopodium bonus-henricus), Stone bramble, Rock whitebeam (Sorbus rupicola),  Globe thistle (Cirsium heterophyllum) almost in flower, Lesser pond sedge, Glaucus sedge, Bog asphodel, Smooth ladies mantle.

 

Teesdale Waterfalls

Teesdale provides good exposures of Carboniferous Yoredale cycles on the ridge of the Caledonian Alston block. The Whin sill emplacement into the later carboniferous forms spectacular waterfalls on resistant rock. More recent glacial deposition features were also to be seen.

In Bowlees quarry a thick bedrock exposure of Scar Limestone was examined. The beds were dipping gently to the South East.

The waterfall on the Bow Lee beck seen below was flowing over the Scar limestone although the fall above that was over sandstone. The Scar limestone is visible the large block on the right of the waterfall. The slippage probably the result of movement in the fault. The stream bed showed tell tale ripple marks of sandstone. Yoredale sequences or Cyclothems are repeated geological cycles of limestone-shale-sandstone, seatearth/coal formed in the mid carboniferous.

At low force the Whin Sill predominates, its crude hexagonal columnar features stand out like broken teeth. Towards the close of Carboniferous Period some 295 million years ago, crustal stretching caused by movement of the Earth’s tectonic plates allowed the emplacement of igneous intrusions of magma across much of northern England in a suite of tholeiitic (quartz) dolerite intrusions. On cooling, these crystallised and solidified to form the Great Whin Sill seen below.

The light grey rock in the picture below looks like limestone but this is deceptive, since this is the same dolerite rock as the Sill in a weathered state.

Near Wynch bridge we looked at a sandstone raft left in the Dolerite as it solidified. The picture shows the boundary between grey/brown Whin and paler coarser grained sandstone. The point of contact is a chilled margin, where a thin dark glassy layer of tachylite can be seen.

While walking up to the High Force drumlins were conspicuous. These shallow egg shaped landforms are depositional features formed by a glacier as it retreats.

More possible evidence of glaciation seen below in the striations (scratched bedrock caused by glacial abrasion) on this rock.

High Force is an impressive waterfall where the river Tees drops 21 metres over the Whin sill into a plunge pool below.

The stratigraphy sequence can be discerned in the rock layers. The dark grey horizontal beds visible on the bottom fight are composed of the Tyne Bottom limestone. The bed directly above is sandstone and the top two vertically jointed beds are the Whin sill. The quartz dolerite magma has been injected into the sandstones and there is a chilled tachylitic margin for those intrepid enough to look for it.

 

 

Reference: Northumbrian Rocks and Landscape Ed by Colin Scrutton.

Claxheugh Rock

This is an impressive rock by the south bank of the river Wear near Sunderland. On approach a Peregrine falcon took flight from the top.

The river cuts through exposures of  Carboniferous (Upper coal measures) and Upper Permian age. Carboniferous age rocks are exposed on the far shore as a distinguishable,  deeply weathered, purple coloured rock layer below the bright yellow lower Permian sandstone. Between these layers is an unconformity or gap in the geological record.  Permian yellow sandstone have been widely quarried and acted as a porous reservoir for natural gas out under the North Sea.

Carboniferous strata is also revealed on the Claxheugh side, in crumbly mudstones of different shades of grey. Coal seams were not visible but the dark grey suggests a high carbon content.

Below the flaky layer, harder sandstone shows the wavy ripple marks indicative of a marine origin.

These marks on the rocks look like trace fossils left by burrowing creatures.

The Claxheugh exposures lie entirely within a fault-bounded trough; the Claxheugh fault shown below forms the Eastern edge and the Ford Fault further down, the western boundary of the sequence.

 A closer view of Claxheugh Rock, derived from Clack’s Heugh, a crag in Mr Clack’s property, reveal the join between the Basal Permian Yellow Sands, Marl Slate, Raisby Formation and Ford Formation above. The reef of the Ford formation comprises a great mass of buff and brown dolomitic bryozoan dolomitic limestone and ancient stromatolites. Their appears to be another unconformity here at the boundary with the blocky Permian sandstone.

A submarine slide canyon appears as a disturbance feature in the picture below.

Thin Marl slate facies can be seen below. Comprising finely laminated, buff and grey, dolomitic shale  in brown, carbonaceous, plastic clay, it has been marked by graffiti.

Besides the Peregrine, the rock was encircled by a ‘train’ of Jackdaws. The tide was low and Shelduck, Curlew, Redshank and Cormorant were seen in small numbers while in the surrounding  scrubby woodlands Chiff-chaff were calling. Although bees and butterflies were zooming around, only Small tortoiseshell butterfly was clearly identifiable.

Once the Hylton ferry ran across the Wear, now the boats look abandoned and there is no crossing now.

 

 

Reference:

http://jncc.defra.gov.uk/pdf/gcrdb/GCRsiteaccount2086.pdf

Bedrock and Building Stones- Dr Andy Lane 2014

Sunderland North Dock Tufa

The calcareous Tufa Dome shown above consists of the mineral calcium carbonate (calcite). Precipitation from the stream water has formed a geological feature of great interest. Tufa formation is associated with hard-water springs, where groundwater rich in calcium bicarbonate comes to the surface. On contact with the air, carbon dioxide is lost from the water and a hard deposit of calcium carbonate (tufa) is formed. These conditions occur most often in areas underlain by limestone. In this case although no-one is sure, the stream is thought to originate from Permian Limestones in Fullwell Quarry.

A closer view of the stalactites formed by the dripping of water.

Bramble and ivy has grown over the top,

while various liverworts, algae and Maidenhair spleenwort are growing underneath. Tufa forms by the combined forces of plant roots, grasses etc which support the precipitating minerals. Gradually they form petrified rock.

The dome has been preserved by extensive supports and the design for the Marine Activites centre amended. Now it lies, a hidden gem, within the building itself.

 

The North Dock was built in 1837 and it is thought that the formation has developed since then. It was discovered in 1992.

St Mary’s – Seals, Seaweed and Birds

The Seals were hauled out on the rocks when I was there in early February. There are four Grey Seal cows in the picture but one is well camouflaged. I was surprised to see the seal pups still largely in their white fur though beginning to turn grey. The seals are protected by  St Mary’s Seal Watch who discourage people from disturbing or harming them.

Further along towards Seaton Sluice a storm beach had formed by the seawall,

Nearby, the sea had deposited a tide-wrack as the tide retreated.

Made of mostly of broken Kelp (Laminaria digitata) fronds I also noticed Sea belt (Laminaria saccharina) amongst it.

Bladder wrack (Fucus vesiculosa)

Egg wrack (Ascophyllum nodosum)

and Serrated Wrack (Fucus serratus) pictured below are frequently washed up here. These are all brown algae, a large group of multicellular algae, including many seaweeds located in colder waters in the Northern Hemisphere. Most brown algae live in marine environments, where they play an important role both as food and as habitat.

The beach had many intriguing jade green pebbles like the one shown below, which were once green slag produced by the glassworks. The Royal Hartley Bottleworks that once dominated Seaton Sluice harbour, was one of the largest of its kind in England. It closed in 1871. The beach has many interesting reminders such as blue slag pebbles and black sea glass nodules.

Fossils occur from the Carboniferous period.  This one looks like a large brachiopod, perhaps Gigantoproductus.

Crustose Lichens are often found by the sea. This one is Aspicilia calcarea.

The coast is a haven for birds and I noted many bird species: Oyster catchers were common throughout whereas Eider duck clustered at sea by Seaton sluice. On the beach Turnstone were frequent and Redshank. I counted only one Ringed plover and one Dunlin. Sanderling were present in a small group on Blyth Beach but suffered from disturbance by dogs. Curlew were not common but there were a few on the rocks at St Mary’s. In the pond area I spotted two Canada Geese, a Curlew, several redshank, mute swan, Lapwing, Mallard and Moorhen. Two cormorants rested on the rocks with numerous gulls, one  of which might have been Mediterranean since it had eye rings and stout beak. Crows were common beach scavengers at St Mary’s and Rooks in Seaton Sluice. This one perched on a notice board by the beacon had a message for the unwary wingless.

The bird highlight was the delightful presence of Snow Bunting that amused the visitors with their friendly antics. They are Arctic specialists but often overwinter in temperate zones. Soon it will be time for them to head back to the arctic for the breeding season.